Staining, Chinking, and Maintenance
Properly applied and maintained sealers and sealants designed for logs and how they move can make the difference between easy maintenance or costly refinishing. The most influential factor as to how long a finish will last is the condition of the surface it is applied to which is why we only apply finishes to properly prepped logs. To meet our criteria the logs must be:
- Clean & Sound: This means wood free from previous finishes that are failing, dust, bird droppings, and that has been exposed to the sun for less than two weeks. Any gray or yellow wood must be removed as these are damaged wood fibers and will cause the finish to fail (as a general rule we don’t apply finishes to wood that has been exposed to the sun for more than two weeks). If you have ever seen stain that was peeling it was most likely caused by improper surface prep.
- Textured: This means that the logs need to have a semi-rough surface for the finishes to properly adhere. Applying stain over freshly milled logs means that the stain is trying to grip to the smooth “mill-glaze” surface. We remove this using Osborne brushes or Buffy pads which leave a textured surface. If the logs have a draw-knifed surface this usually doesn’t cause mill-glaze although brushing may still be needed to remove sun-damaged wood.
- Dry & Warm: The logs need to have a moisture content under 19% which in the southwest is not a problem, but if there’s any doubt we check with a moisture meter before applying. For the finishes to properly cure they need to be applied in the shade with temperatures between 40F and 90F and we also aim for overnight temps above 40F.
We believe that the homeowner should not have to pay for work that is done improperly due to the contractor’s ignorance or lack of care and we are continuously educating ourselves on the best products and techniques to reduce the chance of this happening on any of our jobs.